한남동 주택가 골목, 오래된 주택을 개조한 ‘수집미학’ 공간에서 만난 프래그런스 브랜드 수집미학의 박진선 제너럴디렉터(GENERAL DIRECTOR 이하 GD)의 첫 인상은 그녀가 이끄는 브랜드만큼이나 신선했다.
“소비되고 사라지는 소모품을 넘어 소장할 가치가 있는 미학적 아이템을 창조하겠다”고 밝힌 그녀의 명확한 브랜드 콘셉트는 프래그런스 업계의 관습을 뒤집는 수집미학만의 정체성을 단적으로 보여준 것으로 그녀가 가진 철학과 연결된다.
박진선 GD의 수집미학과의 인연은 특별하다. 로우클래식의 크리에이티브 디렉터로 활동하던 그는 2019년 크리에이티브 오브제 브랜드로 시작한 수집미학이 2025년 여름 로우클래식의 크리에이티브 라인으로 합류하게 되면서, 이 브랜드의 제너럴디렉터로 새로운 역할을 맡게 된 것이다.

따라서 현재 박 GD는 브랜드를 탄생시킨 김나영 크리에이티브 디렉터(CD)와 함께 수집미학을 더 나은 브랜드로 성장시키기 위해 함께 노력하고 있다. 이 둘은 브랜드의 콘셉트나 방향에 대해 늘 함께 의논하고 최종 결정한다.
특히 박 GD는 그간 로우클래식에서 쌓아온 타임리스한 디자인 철학과 공간 활용 노하우를 수집미학의 실험적이고 감각적인 향 제품과 결합시켜 그녀만의 통합적 감각을 담아내고 있다. 따라서 두 브랜드의 협업은 단순한 인수합병이 아닌, 각자의 강점이 시너지를 내는 전략적 결합으로 평가받는다.
“수집미학은 당연히 소모품을 만들지만, 단순히 소모에서 끝나는 것이 아니라, 소장할 수 있는 것들이 됐으면 좋겠어요.”

박 GD의 이 한 마디는 수집미학의 모든 것을 설명한다. 그녀는 단순히 좋은 향을 만드는 것을 넘어 ‘수집 가능한 미학적 오브제’를 창조한다는 명확한 철학으로 브랜드를 이끌고 있는 것이다. 이러한 철학은 제품의 모든 디테일에 녹아져 있다. 대부분의 프래그런스 브랜드가 향에서 시작해 용기(그릇)를 고민한다면, 수집미학은 향수를 다 쓰고 난 후에도 버리지 않고 계속 소장하고 싶도록 용기부터 미학적으로 완성도 높게 디자인하려고 노력하고 있다.
“향수를 다 쓴 후에도 용기를 다른 용도로 활용하거나 그 자체로 간직하고 싶게 만드는 것이 우리의 방향입니다.”
갤러리처럼 구성된 한남동 플래그십 스토어에서 각 향을 하나의 작품처럼 전시한 것도 같은 맥락이다.
향은 사라지지만, 그것을 담았던 오브제는 소장 가치를 지닌 예술품으로 남을 수 있도록 하고 있다.

◇ 1800년대 경찰 휘슬에서 영감받은 ‘포터블 퍼퓸’ 인기
수집미학의 대표 인기 제품 ‘포터블 퍼퓸’은 김나영 CD와 함께 고민해서 만든 박진선 GD의 독창적인 감각이 빛나는 제품이다. 1800년대 영국 경찰이 사용하던 휘슬에서 영감을 받아 탄생한 이 제품은 석고바에 오일을 먹여 목걸이처럼 착용하거나 공간에 걸어둘 수 있는 완전히 새로운 형태의 향수다.
“포터블은 퍼퓸은 다른 향수와 달리 상대방이 아닌 사용자 자신이 향을 맡고 싶을 때 맡는 자신을 위한 제품이에요.”
박 GD의 설명처럼 포터블 퍼퓸은 향수의 개념을 재정의한다. ‘디 아카이브 에디션(The Archive Edition)’이라는 컬렉션명처럼, 과거의 오브제를 현대적으로 재해석해 기능과 미학을 동시에 담아냈다는 평가를 받고 있다.박 GD의 전문성은 조향 파트너 선정에서도 드러난다. 수집미학은 파리의 전문 조향 하우스를 통해 만난 세계적 조향사 세 명과 협업하고 있다. 향의 제조는 코스맥스, 코스메카 등 국내 최고 수준의 전문 제조사를 통해 이루어진다.

“고급 향을 구현하기 위해 톱(TOP) 노트에 집중하는 일반적인 향수와 달리, 두 시간 정도 지나야 향이 잘 올라오는 ‘고급형’ 제작을 지향해요.” 그녀의 설명은 업계의 통념에서 벗어난다. 첫 향으로 승부하는 대중적 향수와 달리, 시간이 지나면서 깊이를 드러내는 하이엔드 프래그런스를 추구한다는 것이다.
현재 수집미학의 제품군은 3개의 컬렉션과 별도 컬렉션 ‘디 아카이브 에디션’으로 구성돼 있다. 먼저 시그니처로 밀고 있는 ‘프롬 스틸라이프(From Still Life)’ 컬렉션은 네롤리, 베티버, 넛맥이 조화를 이루는 향으로 정물화에서 영감받았다. 우디 계열에 스모키하고, 탄 향이 강하게 나는 유니크한 조합으로 마니아층으로부터 열렬한 지지를 받고 있다.

여름 시즌 인기 컬렉션인 ‘뉴 메디슨(New Medicine)’은 시더우드, 그린 만다린, 시소가 어우러지고, 연금술사가 새로운 식물을 창조한다는 콘셉트로 식물향이 주를 이룬다. ‘고저스 낫띵(Gorgeous Nothing)’ 컬렉션은 원액(앱솔루트) 장미 원료를 사용한 실험적 장미향으로, 현대적으로 재해석한 새로운 향으로 주목받고 있다.
박 GD는 “고저스 낫띵은 타 브랜드들이 쉽게 선택하지 못한 정도로 매우 비싼 원료를 사용한 향으로 고급화에 집중한 대표 아이템”이라면서 제품에 대한 자부심을 드러냈다. 하지만 흥미롭게도 중성적으로 개발했지만 첫 향을 맡았을 때 오히려 남성 소비자들이 많이 선택하는 경향을 보인다. 그리고 별도 컬렉션 ‘디 아카이브 에디션’은 앞서 소개한 포터블 퍼퓸과 스트랩을 포함한 세트 등을 말한다.

◇ 한남동 플래그십, 향과 공간이 만든 예술적 경험
지난 8월 오픈한 한남동 플래그십 스토어는 박 GD가 로우클래식에서 쌓아온 공간 디렉팅 역량이 집약된 공간이다. ‘향을 사적 공간 구조로 제안한다’는 브랜드 모토에 맞춰, 각각의 향을 표현하는 방들로 나뉜 공간은 소비자가 시간과 기억, 감성을 입체적으로 경험하도록 설계됐다.
오래된 주택을 개조해 빈티지하면서도 사람의 손길이 느껴지는 공간으로 꾸며진 스토어는 향과 공간이 하나로 어우러지는 체험을 제공한다. 스토어 오픈을 위해 유명 작가와 컬래버레이션을 진행했고, 직원 유니폼은 복각 의류 브랜드 데어가이스트(de r geist)와 로우클래식이 제작해 완성했다.

박 GD는 현재 국내 안정화와 해외 시장 진출을 동시에 준비 중이다. 지난 10월 16일에는 카카오 선물하기 플랫폼, 10월 30일은 29cm에 입점해 온라인 유통을 확대했고, 내년 4월경에는 약수동 로우클래식 플래그십스토어 건물에 두 번째 오프라인 매장을 오픈한다. 그리고 백화점 등 주요 유통채널과의 팝업 스토어 협의도 활발히 진행 중이다.
“해외 시장 진출을 위해서는 압도적인 시그니처 향수 라인 탄생이 필수적이에요.” 박 GD는 내년 4월경 브랜드를 대표할 가장 핵심적인 향수 라인을 론칭할 계획이다. 또한 현재 개발 중인 새로운 머스크 향은 “싼 머스크를 피하고 실험적인 방향으로 시도하다 보니 난항을 겪고 있다”면서 솔직하게 털어놨지만, 이러한 타협 없는 모습은 완성도를 높이기 위한 계속된 도전으로 수집미학의 강점이다.

브랜드 초기부터 지향해온 중성적 ‘향’ 전략도 눈여겨볼 부분이다. “첫 시즌부터 향을 중성적으로 풀어내는 것을 지향했고, 현재도 마찬가지입니다. 흥미로운 점은 중성적으로 개발한 향들이 성별을 불문하고 각자의 취향에 따라 구분없이 선택받고 있다는 점이에요.”
이는 향에 대한 고정관념을 깨는 수집미학의 실험이 시장에서 유효하다는 증거다.
보습을 강화한 핸드앤바디 워시와 로션, 핸드 크림, 프래그런스 오일, 디스커버리 핸드크림 세트 등의 나머지 제품도 같은 철학으로 개발되고 있다.
이처럼 로우클래식의 크리에이티브 디렉터에서 수집미학의 제너럴디렉터로 새로운 역할을 맡은 박진선 GD. 그녀의 시선은 패션에서 프래그런스로 확장돼 더욱 입체적인 라이프스타일 경험을 창조하고 있다.
‘좋은 향을 어떻게 도구로서 표현할 것인지’에 집중하는 그녀의 접근이 ‘소모되지 않고 수집되는 향’의 시대를 열어가는 ‘K프래그런스’의 새로운 가능성을 제시한다.


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